Jewels du Jour

Jewels du Jour explores jewelry from the masters of both the past and present.
A myriad of remarkable walking sticks at M.S. Rau Antiques. Can you pick out those made by Fabergé? #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #msrau #walkingsticks #faberge

A myriad of remarkable walking sticks at M.S. Rau Antiques. Can you pick out those made by Fabergé? #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #msrau #walkingsticks #faberge

Pleats and stripes @vancleefarpels @piagetbrand #tigerseye #ny #artantiquejewelryshow @betteridge1897 #booth210/311

Pleats and stripes @vancleefarpels @piagetbrand #tigerseye #ny #artantiquejewelryshow @betteridge1897 #booth210/311

Two of two Bulgari Serpenti at Richters 🐍 @richterjewels #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #armory #serpenti @bulgariofficial #bulgari #richters

Two of two Bulgari Serpenti at Richters 🐍 @richterjewels #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #armory #serpenti @bulgariofficial #bulgari #richters

One of two Bulgari Serpenti at Richters 🐍 @richterjewels #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #armory #serpenti @bulgariofficial #bulgari #richters

One of two Bulgari Serpenti at Richters 🐍 @richterjewels #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #armory #serpenti @bulgariofficial #bulgari #richters

Just keep swimming… 🐠🐟🐠 @bulgariofficial #naturalia #bulgari @richterjewels #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #palmbeachgroup #richters

Just keep swimming… 🐠🐟🐠 @bulgariofficial #naturalia #bulgari @richterjewels #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #palmbeachgroup #richters

Ready for takeoff!! #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #hatchwellantiques #aeronautical #antiques

Ready for takeoff!! #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #hatchwellantiques #aeronautical #antiques

A mushroom grows at the Armory… @suzannesyzartjewels #suzannesyz #artjewels #artantiquejewelryshow #palmbeachgroup

A mushroom grows at the Armory… @suzannesyzartjewels #suzannesyz #artjewels #artantiquejewelryshow #palmbeachgroup

Suzanne Syz injects youth and energy into jewelry, just take a look at this fabulously fun cartoon bracelet featuring some of our favorite characters from our childhood! #yabbadabbadoo #cartoonjewels #suzannesyz @suzannesyzartjewels #artjewels

Suzanne Syz injects youth and energy into jewelry, just take a look at this fabulously fun cartoon bracelet featuring some of our favorite characters from our childhood! #yabbadabbadoo #cartoonjewels #suzannesyz @suzannesyzartjewels #artjewels

A melting Chupa Chup makes a colorful mess at the Armory #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #candyart #chupachups #sculpture

A melting Chupa Chup makes a colorful mess at the Armory #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #candyart #chupachups #sculpture

Fab art at the Armory #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #palmbeachgroup

Fab art at the Armory #ny #artantiquejewelryshow #palmbeachgroup

Betteridge sibs looking good at tonight’s Yankee game!! @betteridge1897 #yankees #officialjeweler #ny #betteridge

Betteridge sibs looking good at tonight’s Yankee game!! @betteridge1897 #yankees #officialjeweler #ny #betteridge

The new high jewelry collections have always been the main highlight of the Biennale des Antiquaires for jewelry connoisseurs, but the presence of antique jewelry at the fair is starting to take a larger sliver of the pie. Of the 89 exhibitors this year, only sixteen focus on jewelry, including just three who specialize in the antique variety. However, a few high jewelry brands have realized the demand for exceptional signed antique jewels is growing and have started accumulating collections of their own vintage pieces.

Cartier Seeks Cartier - Photo courtesy of Cartier

Cartier Seeks Cartier – Photo courtesy of Cartier

Most notably, Van Cleef & Arpels curates its own Heritage Collection, which offers a mixture of rare collectible pieces as well as more fun, wearable jewels. The French jewelry house now brings a handful of the best pieces to the shows it participates in year round, including the Biennale and TEFAF.

From Van Cleef & Arpels Heritage Collection, these two pieces from 1972 and 1974 demonstrate the Indian influence notable in Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations of that period. On the long necklace, splendid cushion-cut yellow sapphires illuminate a triple row of green agate beads punctuated by a detachable tassel. The pair of earrings offers a dazzling combination of different cuts of stones: green agate cabochons, together with briolette-cut and kite citrines. Photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

From Van Cleef & Arpels Heritage Collection, these two pieces from 1972 and 1974 demonstrate the Indian influence notable in Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations of that period. On the long necklace, splendid cushion-cut yellow sapphires illuminate a triple row of green agate beads punctuated by a detachable tassel. The pair of earrings offers a dazzling combination of different cuts of stones: green agate cabochons, together with briolette-cut and kite citrines. Photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

To my delightful surprise, Cartier has followed suit at this year’s Biennale and introduced a selection of rare, covetable antique pieces in tandem with the Royal Cartier high jewelry collection. A bit of a different strategy than Van Cleef & Arpels’ approach, the antique collection focuses heavily on museum-worthy jewels, watches, and objets made by the maison before 1965.

Créole earrings in platinum and diamond with interchangeable boules of lapis lazuli, lavender jadeite or hematite. Cartier, Paris 1929.

Créole earrings in platinum and diamond with interchangeable boules of lapis lazuli, lavender jadeite or hematite. Cartier, Paris 1929.

Jewelry from the Art Deco period was the most prominent at the Biennale, with highlights including a ‘tutti frutti’ bracelet by Cartier New York, circa 1931; a pair of ruby and diamond pendant earrings by Cartier London, circa 1931; a platinum, carved emerald (15.00 carats), natural pearl and diamond bracelet by Cartier New York, circa 1930; and a gem-set ancient Egyptian faience brooch by Cartier London, circa 1923.

A trio of Art Deco pieces at Cartier's booth at the Biennale.

A trio of Art Deco pieces at Cartier’s booth at the Biennale.

With even more competition in the market, it will be interesting to see how these in-house vintage collections will affect the antique jewelry market, from the auction houses to the dealers as well.

Here are a few highlights from Cartier’s Antique Pieces collection, a good number of which had already sold at the Biennale.

Cartier Debuts A Selection of Antique Pieces at the Biennale The new high jewelry collections have always been the main highlight of the Biennale des Antiquaires for jewelry connoisseurs, but the presence of antique jewelry at the fair is starting to take a larger sliver of the pie.
At yet another show… New York Art, Antique & Jewelry Show at the Park Avenue Armory. @betteridge1897 booth! #nyartantiquejewelryshow #betteridge #showcircuit

At yet another show… New York Art, Antique & Jewelry Show at the Park Avenue Armory. @betteridge1897 booth! #nyartantiquejewelryshow #betteridge #showcircuit

Mikado meets Hemmerle #nyfallviewing #pickupsticks #invite #hemmerle

Mikado meets Hemmerle #nyfallviewing #pickupsticks #invite #hemmerle

The City of Light glitters with gold - read about my gold finds during my trip to Paris on the blog! http://wp.me/p2EoMO-5tt @lovegoldlive #lovegold #biennale2014 #paris #gold #treasurehunting @cartier @piagetbrand

The City of Light glitters with gold - read about my gold finds during my trip to Paris on the blog! http://wp.me/p2EoMO-5tt @lovegoldlive #lovegold #biennale2014 #paris #gold #treasurehunting @cartier @piagetbrand